Basketball Hoop Backpack

It is no secret that basketball was my very first love. It was the kind of relationship that never felt like work, and one that completely broke my heart when it ended prematurely. It is still the only thing that brightens up the clouds over my shoulders all winter, and after the holidays pass, I look forward to March Madness more than anything. So here we are, heading into the second week of March, and ohhhh so close to the greatest sports event on TV each year (#facts), and I am giddy with excitement!

 

This bag has been months in the making. I began it for my son’s birthday in the fall, but of course didn’t complete it in time. Then my daughter wanted one, but with a crossbody strap. It should be noted, however, that with use, the crossbody strap stretches out, as well as pulls and stretches the ball. The backpack option more evenly distributes the weight, and we have not had this same issue. I have included both options in the pattern regardless, and if you use a stiffer yarn, such as cotton, for the crossbody, it may not be an issue! 

This pattern can be found for FREE below! Or you can purchase an ad-free, printer-friendly PDF from my Ravelry or Etsy shops!

Materials:
Red Heart Super Saver:

• White – approximately 6.6 ozs, 344 yds
• Pumpkin – approximately 1.6 ozs, 84 yds
• Carrot – approximately 3 ozs, 159 yds

For straps, worsted weight yarn in colors of choice:

• Main color – approximately 2 oz, 106 yds
• Border – approximately 0.4 oz, 22 yds

Crochet hook size I – 5.5mm
Crochet hook size G – 4.25mm (used only for straps)
Tapestry needle for weaving in ends
Optional Lining
Approximately ½ yard fabric
14-18 inch all-purpose zipper
10-12 inch zipper for optional additional pocket
Sewing needle and orange thread

Terms and abbreviations to know:
Rnd -­ Round
Ch, chs – chain, chains
St, sts – stitch, stitches
Sl st – slip stitch
Sc – single crochet
Hdc – half double crochet
Dc – double crochet
Tr2tog – triple crochet 2 together

1. Yarn over hook twice and insert hook into designated st.
2. Yarn over and pull up a loop.
3. Yarn over and pull through 2 loops (3 loops remaining on hook).
4. Yarn over and pull through 2 loops (2 loops remaining on hook).
5. Yarn over hook twice and insert hook through the next designated st.
6. Yarn over and pull up a loop.
7. Yarn over and pull through 2 loops (4 loops remaining on hook).
8. Yarn over and pull through 2 loops (3 loops remaining on hook)
9. Yarn over and pull through all 3 loops.

FL – front loop
BL – back loop
Fptr2tog – front post triple crochet 2 together. This st works up the same as the tr2tog, but around the post instead of through a st.
BPHDC – back post half double crochet

1. Yarn over.
2. Insert hook from back to front of the next st from previous rnd.
3. Insert hook from front to back on the other side of the st so that the st is behind your hook.
4. Yarn over and pull up a loop.
5. Yarn over and pull through all 3 loops.

Fphdc – front post half double crochet

Text and images copyright ©2019 by Erin Greene of ​ekayg, all rights reserved. No pattern may be reproduced or distributed in any form by any method without written permission. Finished products made from this pattern may be used for sale. Please credit back to ekayg. Please direct any questions about the pattern to my e­mail, ​ ekaygcrafts@gmail.com​ . I will respond as quickly as I am able. 

Notes: This pattern is worked from the points at the bottom of the net, up to the rim. Pages 2-7 contain the entire written pattern for easy printing, and the pictures can be found at the end, for more details. Turning chs do not count as sts throughout the pattern. The first dc st of each rnd is worked into the same st as joining sl st. The bottom closure of the bag is made separately and sewn in. The basketball and straps are also made separately. Included in the pattern are two different strap options, for a backpack, or for a crossbody bag, but both are made very similarly. Pay careful attention to the order of assembly for greater ease of the pattern. For the first version I made, the backpack, I used a surface sl st to create the lines on the basketball, but then later decided to use more of a hand sewing/embroidery method which you will see below in the instructions. Another valid option would be to simply use puffy paint. This may make for cleaner lines. I have included a clipart picture of a basketball for reference.  
Gauge for “net” portion: 12 sts across x 6 rows down = approximately 4 inches, Each FPTR is approximately 2 inches in length
Gauge for rim portion: = approximately 2 inches
 

Ch 64, join with sl st to the first ch to create a loop.
Rnd 1: (ch 5, sl st in 3rd ch from hook to create a picot, ch 2, sk next 2 chs of original ch, sl st in 3rd and 4th chs of original ch)16x; 16 points for the bottom of the hoop/blanket (refer to picture 1)
Turn to work through the loop on the opposite side of the ch, with points facing downward.
Rnd 2: ch 1, (sc in next 2 skipped chs from first rnd, 2 hdc around the ch and sl sts between points)16x, join with sl st to the back loop of the first st; 64 sts (refer to picture 2)
**Note from here on, always work into back loops unless otherwise specified. And work the first st of each rnd into same as joining sl st. Chs do not count toward stitch count. Follow the increases carefully. The reason they are spaced out the way that they are is so that the hoop widens more gradually, and the FPTR sts remain evenly spaced out. Every time you make a FPTR, you are skipping the st directly behind it. Also, work you FPTR more loosely than your other sts, so that they are not pulling the rnds down.
Rnd 3: ch 2, dc in each st around, join with sl st; 64 sts
Rnd 4: ch 2, tr2tog connecting the LAST FL of rnd 2 and the 4th FL of rnd 2, sk first st of rnd 3, dc in next 3 sts, (tr2tog connecting the same FL just used and the 4th FL after, sk next st of rnd 3, dc in next 3 sts)15x, tr2tog connecting the same FL just used and the same FL used at the beginning of the rnd, sk next st of rnd 3, dc in next 3 sts, sl st to BL of first st of rnd to join; 64 sts (refer to pictures 3-6 for the tr2tog)
Rnd 5: ch 2, dc in next 2 sts, 3 dc in next st, (dc in next 15 sts, 3 dc in next st)3x, dc in next 13 sts, join with sl st;  72 sts

Important Note: From here on I will be shortening the language, to keep things clear and concise, but it is important to note that all of the fptr2tog sts will be worked around the fptr2tog sts from 2 rnds below, and the st behind your newly worked fptr2tog st will be skipped. Also, the first fptr2tog st will be working around the LAST one from 2 rnds below, and the first one. You will be going backwards for that first fptr2tog. Pay careful attention to the parentheses and the brackets for your repeating patterns! (refer to pictures 7-10 below for working the fptr2tog around the fptr2tog from 2 rows down)
Rnd 6: ch 2, fptr2tog, sk first st, dc in next 5 sts, [(fptr2tog, dc in next 3 sts)3x, fptr2tog, dc in next 5 sts]3x, (fptr2tog, dc in next 3 sts)3x, join with sl st; 72 sts
Rnd 7: ch 2, dc in each st around, join with sl st; 72 sts
Rnds 8-10: repeat rnd 6, 7, and 6 again; 72 sts
Rnd 11: ch 2, dc in next 8 sts, 3 dc in next st, (dc in next 17 sts, 3 dc in next st)3x, dc in next 9 sts, join with sl st; 80 sts
Rnd 12: ch 2, [(fptr2tog, sk next st, dc in next 5 sts)2x, (fptr2tog, sk next st, sc in next 3 sts)2x]4x, join with sl st; 80 sts
Rnd 13: ch 2, dc in each st around, join with sl st; 80 sts
Rnds 14-18: repeat rnds 12, 13, 12, 13, and 12 again; 80 sts
Rnd 19: ch 2, dc in next 14 sts, (3 dc in next st, dc in next 19 sts)3x, 3 dc in next st, dc in next 5 sts, join with sl st; 88 sts
Rnd 20: ch 2, [(fptr2tog, sk next st, dc in next 5 sts)3x, fptr2tog, dc in next 3 sts]4x, join with sl st; 88 sts
Rnd 21: ch 2, dc in each st around, join with sl st; 88 sts
Rnd 22: repeat rnd 20; 88 st
Rnd 23: ch 2, dc in next 20 sts, 3 dc in next st, (dc in next 21 sts, 3 dc in next st)3x, dc in last st, join with sl st; 96 sts
Rnd 24: ch 2, (fptr2tog, sk next st, dc in next 5 sts)16x; 96 sts
Attach orange and fasten off white. Work through both loops now. No more BLO.
Rnd 25: ch 1, (fphdc, sc in next 5 sts)16x, join with sl st; 96 sts
Rnds 26-38: sc in each st around; 96 sts
Fasten off, leaving very long tail for sewing. Roll the rim over to the outside, and gently sew down. (see pictures 11-14)

Bottom of the bag in white
Ch 9
Row 1: turn and sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across; 8 sts
Row 2: ch 1 and turn, sc in each st across; 8 sts
Row 3: ch 1 and turn, inc, sc in next 6 sts, inc; 10 sts
Row 4: ch 1 and turn, sc in each st across; 10 sts
Row 5: ch 1 and turn, inc, sc in next 8 sts, inc; 12 sts
Rows 6-28: ch 1 and turn, sc in each st across; 12 sts
Row 29: ch 1 and turn, dec, sc in next 8 sts, dec; 10 sts
Row 30: ch 1 and turn, sc in each st across; 10 sts
Row 31: ch 1 and turn, dec, sc in next 6 sts, dec; 8 sts
Row 32: ch 1 and turn, sc in each st across; 8 sts
Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Sew into the bottom of the bag with the points of the back hanging lower than your sewing point. (see picture 15)

Basketball, darker orange, make 2
Begin with magic ring.
Rnd 1: 6 sc in magic ring; 6 sts
Rnd 2: inc in each st around; 12 sts
Rnd 3: (inc, sc in next st)6x; 18 sts
Rnd 4: sc in next st, (inc, sc in next 2 sts)5x, inc, sc in last st; 24 sts
Rnd 5: (inc, sc in next 3 sts)6x; 30 sts
Rnd 6: sc in next 2 sts, (inc, sc in next 4 sts)5x, inc, sc in last 2 sts; 36 sts
Rnd 7: (inc, sc in next 5 sts)6x; 42 sts
Rnd 8: sc in next 3 sts, (inc, sc in next 6 sts)5x, inc, sc in last 3 sts; 48 sts
Rnd 9: (inc, sc in next 7 sts)6x; 54 sts
Rnd 10: sc in next 4 sts, (inc, sc in next 8 sts)5x, inc, sc in next 4 sts; 60 sts
Rnd 11: (inc, sc in next 9 sts)6x; 66 sts
Rnd 12: sc in next 5 sts, (inc, sc in next 10 sts)5x, inc, sc in last 5 sts; 72 sts
Rnd 13: (inc, sc in next 11 sts)6x; 78 sts
Rnd 14: sc in next 6 sts, (inc, sc in next 12 sts)5x, inc, sc in last 6 sts; 84 sts
Rnd 15: (inc, sc in next 13 sts)6x; 90 sts
Rnd 16: sc in next 7 sts, (inc, sc in next 14 sts)5x, inc, sc in last 7 sts; 96 sts
Rnd 17: sc in each st around; 96 sts
Fasten off, and weave in ends. Assembly of the basketballs will be done later.
Basketball lines – you only need to do this for ONE side of the ball that will be facing out when the bag is worn. And you have options!

1. Puffy Paint. This option will provide the straightest, most consistent lines for your ball, as steady as your hand can be in applying! Tip from a tester – use a small paintbrush over the paint to press more firmly into the yarn, so that it will not come apart as easily during washes.
2. Embroidery/Sewing. Using 5 stitch markers, center one where the top will be. That will be your center line going down. Count 12 sts to the right, and place another stitch marker. Count another 12 sts from the right of that, and place another stitch marker. Then go back to the top center. Count 12 sts to the left and place a st marker. Count another 12 sts to the left of that one, and place your final sts marker. Work the needle back up and under the previous st, to get the continuous lines. (see pictures 16-22)
3. Surface sl st (video from Moogly blog) here. Still use the st marker instruction from above, to represent where your lines will begin.

Backpack Straps
Begin with main color
Ch 11
Row 1: turn and sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc in each ch across; 10 sts
Row 2: ch 1 and turn, sc in each st across; 10 sts
Rows 3-90: repeat row 2; 10 sts
Begin the second strap. Do not fasten off, and do not turn. Turn your work, so that you are working into the side of the strap you just made. (see picture 23)
Row 1: sc 10 across in the sides of your last 10 rows; 10 sts
Rows 2-78: ch 1 and turn, sc in each st across; 10 sts
Switch to border color, and sc around the sides, all the way around the straps.

Crossbody Strap
Note: after some use, we have noticed that the crossbody strap stretches and pulls at the ball, distorting its shape a bit. This does not occur with the backpack due to better weight distribution on the straps. However, I have left this option in the pattern for those who still wish to try it. Also, if you use a stiffer yarn, such as cotton, this may not occur.
Begin with main color
Ch 11
Row 1: turn and sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc in each ch across; 10 sts
Row 2: ch 1 and turn, sc in each st across; 10 sts
Rows 3-150: repeat row 2; 10 sts
Fasten off, and switch to border color. Sc around the whole strap. Then, sew them end to side as pictured. (see picture 24)

Assembly of the straps (see pictures 24-28)
Place the V end of your straps on the WS of the back basketball panel. Sew it down. Place the lined side of your ball on top so that the V of your straps in between the panels, matching up stitches, with the black lines facing out. Using your darker orange yarn, start in the middle side of the basketball panels. Sl st around, connecting them. When you get to where the straps are sewn onto the back panel, sl st right through the straps. Fasten off leaving a very long tail for sewing into the bag.

Sew the bottom half of the basketball into the bag, against what you want to be the inside back of your bag. Make sure the straps are centered out the top of the bag. You can sew it down completely to the hoop, OR leave the back open for an additional pocket. (see pictures 29-30) If you have made the backpack version, sew the other ends of the straps down to the back side of the hoop part of the bag, just below the rim a couple of inches. (see pictures 31-33) Fasten off and weave in all ends.

Lining (optional) (see pictures 34-41) *I choose to line my bag to prevent too much stretching from use. The cotton fabric will help your hoop maintain its shape.
***I am NOT a sewing expert by any stretch of the imagination. The directions for lining the bag are written out simply as I did them. It is very amateur, and just how it worked for me.
Your bag may measure slightly differently than mine, so begin by measuring the width and height of the bag. Due to the stretch of the bag, and allowing room for the seam, I then added 1 inch to the height. As the bag tapers down, so should the lining. I cut two panels of fabric, with RS facing each other, into a sort of trapezoid shape, measuring approximately 15 inches wide at the top, and 12 inches wide at the bottom.
Pin them together with the tops folded out to create a little hem.
Sew the sides of your bag together, leaving the bottom open.
Pin your 10×5 piece of fabric into the RS of the fabric at the bottom of your bag. Sew around, slowly, moving and turning. I picked mine up at the turns, and then placed back down to get around carefully. Your lining should look like an inside out bag.

Assembly
Pin your zipper into place at the bottom of the rim, just where it connects to the net. Then place your inside-out fabric bag into the net portion of your bag, with the right side visible, and pin the hem into the zipper all the way around.Using your orange thread, sew the zipper and lining in together at the same time. The thread can go back and forth without worry of showing, as long as you’re sewing into that first rnd of orange above the white.

You can follow similar instruction for adding the back pocket behind the basketball.