The Mermaid Ripple Bag was originally published in 2017 as the Mermaid Ripple Purse. It has since been updated to include a backpack option, so the name has been changed to be more inclusive of the style options. Yay, options!
I absolutely love how this design turned out, from the rippled look to the fin. It is one of my all-time favorite designs! Never before or since, have I had a design come together so perfectly and easily from concept to completion. I never even had to frog it!
The pattern on this blog will include the detailed instructions only for the crochet and assembly of the purse, the backpack, and how to sew in the lining and the zipper (which is totally option and shouldn’t discourage you)! I have found that many crochet purse patterns sort of leave the makers on their own when it comes to sewing in the lining, so I have tried my best, to provide those step by step instructions as well!
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Materials:
- Premier Yarns Sweet Roll, Frosty Swirl
- Premier Yarns Sweet Roll, Lavendar Swirl was used for the backpack, but has been discontinued. ANY worsted weight yarn will work! Red Heart Retro Stripes is AMAZING!
- Crochet hook sizes: H – 5mm for the bag portion, F – 3.75mm for the straps or cords
- 2 antique purse rings, about 1-1.5 inches in diameter
- Tapestry needle for weaving in ends
- Fabric for lining – about two, 12 inch squares
- 7 inch, all-purpose zipper in matching color
- sewing needle and matching thread
- Sewing machine is helpful, but lining can be sewn by hand if desired!
Terms and abbreviations to know:
Rnd, rnds - round, rounds
Ch, chs – chain, chains
St, sts – stitch, stitches
Sl st – slip stitch
Hdc – half double crochet
Sc2tog – single crochet 2 together, decrease turning 2 sc into 1
1. Insert hook into next st.
2. Do NOT yarn over. Insert hook into second st.
3. Yarn over, and pull through 2 loops.
4. Yarn over, and pull through last 2 loops.
Hdc2tog – half double crochet 2 together, decrease turning 2 hdc into 1
1. Yarn over and insert hook into next st.
2. Do NOT yarn over. Insert hook into second st.
3. Yarn over, and pull through 2 loops.
4. Yarn over, and pull through all 3 loops.
Dc2tog – double crochet 2 together, decrease turning 2 dc into 1
1. Yarn over and insert hook into next st.
2. Do NOT yarn over. Insert hook into second st.
3. Yarn over, and pull through 2 loops.
4. Yarn over, and pull through 2 loops.
5. Yarn over, and pull through last 2 loops.
BLO – Back loop only
FLO – Front loop only
3rd Loop – the loop behind the back loop found on the hdc
Notes: This pattern is worked in a rnd, around the beginning ch, by crocheting around
both sides of the ch, instead of turning. To get this textured look in the ripples, you will be alternating rnds between working in the back loop, and working in the 3rd loop of the hdc sts. Chs at the beginning of each rnd do not count as sts. Instead, work your first st/sts into the same st as joining sl st. If anything is unclear in the written pattern, and you feel that you need some images to help, the PDF of the Mermaid Ripple Bag pattern comes with 52 process images to help along the way! The H hook is used for the body of the bag and flap, and the F hook is used for the strap attachments and straps.
Gauge: While gauge isn’t terribly important, if you want to use only one yarn cake, this was the gauge for my pattern:
With H hook, taken from the ripple portion: 14 sts across (from peak to peak) and 7 rnds = approximately 3 inches
With F hook, taken from the strap portion: 6 sts across and 4 rows = approximately 1 and 1/4 inch
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Mermaid Ripple Bag
with H hook
Rnd 1: 2 hdc in 3rd ch from hook, [hdc in next 4 chs, hdc2tog 2x, hdc in next 4 chs, (2 hdc in each of the next 2 chs, hdc in next 4 chs, hdc2tog 2x, hdc in next 4 chs) 2x, 2 hdc in last ch], turn and work through the other side of the ch, 2 hdc in the first ch, repeat brackets, and join with sl st to back loop of first hdc of rnd; 84 sts
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Rnd 2: BLO this rnd, ch 2, 2 hdc in next st, hdc in next 4 sts, hdc2tog 2x, (hdc in next 4 sts, 2 hdc in each of the next 2 sts, hdc in next 4 sts, hdc2tog 2x) 5x, hdc in next 4 sts, 2 hdc in last st, join with sl st to 3rd loop of first hdc of rnd; 84 sts
Rnd 3: 3rd Loop Only this rnd, ch 2, 2 hdc in next st, hdc in next 4 sts, hdc2tog 2x, (hdc in next 4 sts, 2 hdc in each of the next 2 sts, hdc in next 4 sts, hdc2tog 2x) 5x, hdc in next 4 sts, 2 hdc in last st, join with sl st to back loop of first hdc of rnd; 84 sts
Rnd 26: BLO this rnd, ch 2, [(hdc2tog 2x, hdc in next 4 sts, 2 hdc in each of the next 2 sts, hdc in next 4 sts) 2x, hdc2tog 2x] 2x, join with sl st to 3rd loop of first hdc of rnd; 60 sts
Rnd 27: 3rd Loop Only this rnd, ch 2, (hdc2tog 2x, hdc in next 3 sts, 2 hdc in each of the next 2 sts, hdc in next 4 sts, hdc2tog 2x, hdc in next 4 sts, 2 hdc in each of the next 2 sts, hdc in next 3 sts, hdc2tog 2x) 2x, join with sl st to back loop of first hdc of rnd; 56 sts
Begin working on the fin here, and we will be working in rows instead of rnds.
Row 1: ch 1 and turn, so you’re working wrong side, FLO this row, 2 hdc in next st, hdc in next 18 sts, 2 hdc in next st; 22 sts
Row 2: ch 1 and turn, BLO this row, 2 hdc in next st, hdc in next 20 sts, 2 hdc in next st; 24 sts
Row 3: ch 1 and turn, FLO this row, 2 hdc in next st, hdc in next 22 sts, 2 hdc in next st; 26 sts
Row 4: ch 20, turn and dc into the 3rd ch from hook, and next 5 chs, hdc in next 6 chs, sc in next 6 chs, sl st into back loop on next 2 sts from row 3; 20 sts
BLO in all of the remaining rows.
Row 5: ch 1 and turn, sk next 2 sl sts, sc in next 6 sts, hdc in next 6 sts, dc in next 6 sts; 18 sts
Row 6: ch 2 and turn, 2 dc2tog, dc in next 2 st, hdc in next 6 sts, sc in next 6 sts, sl st into back loop on next 2 sts from row 3; 18 sts
Row 7: ch 1 and turn, sk next 2 sl sts, sc in next 6 sts, hdc in next 6 sts, dc in next 4 sts; 16 sts
Row 8: ch 2 and turn, 2 dc2tog, hdc in next 6 sts, sc in next 6 sts, sl st into back loop on next 2 sts from row 3; 16 sts
Row 9: ch 1 and turn, sk next 2 sl sts, sc in next 6 sts, hdc in next 6 sts, dc in next 2 sts; 14 sts
Row 10: ch 2 and turn, dc2tog, hdc2tog, hdc in next 4 sts, sc in next 6 sts, sl st into back loop on next 2 sts from row 3; 14 sts
Row 11: ch 1 and turn, sk next 2 sl sts, sc in next 6 sts, hdc in next 5 sts, dc in next st; 12 sts
Row 12: ch 2 and turn, 2 hdc2tog, hdc in next 2 sts, sc in next 6 sts, sl st into back loop on next 2 sts from row 3; 12 sts
Row 13: ch 1 and turn, sk next 2 sl sts, sc in next 6 sts, hdc in next 4 sts; 10 sts
Row 14: ch 2 and turn, 2 hdc2tog, sc in next 6 sts, sl st into back loop on next 2 sts from row 3; 10 sts
Row 15: ch 1 and turn, sk next 2 sl sts, sc in next 6 sts, hdc in next 2 sts; 8 sts
Row 16: ch 2 and turn, hdc2tog, sc2tog, sc in next 4 sts, sl st into back loop on next 2 sts from row 3; 8 sts
Row 17: ch 1 and turn, sk next 2 sl sts, sc in next 4 sts, 2 sc in next st, 2 hdc in next st; 8 sts
Row 18: ch 2 and turn, hdc in next 2 sts, sc in next 6 sts, sl st into back loop on next 2 sts from row 3; 10 sts
Row 19: ch 1 and turn, sk next 2 sl sts, sc in next 6 sts, 2 hdc in each of the next 2 sts; 10 sts
Row 20: ch 2 and turn, hdc in next 4 sts, sc in next 6 sts, sl st into back loop on next 2 sts from row 3; 12 sts
Row 21: ch 1 and turn, sk next 2 sl sts, sc in next 6 sts, hdc in next 2 st, 2 hdc in each of the next 2 sts; 12 sts
Row 22: ch 2 and turn, hdc in next 6 sts, sc in next 6 sts, sl st into back loop on next 2 sts from row 3; 14 sts
Row 23: ch 1 and turn, sk next 2 sl sts, sc in next 6 sts, hdc in next 4 sts, 2 hdc in next st, 2 dc in next st; 14 sts
Row 24: ch 2 and turn, dc in next 2 sts, hdc in next 6 sts, sc in next 6 sts, sl st into back loop on next 2 sts from row 3; 16 sts
Row 25: ch 1 and turn, sk next 2 sl sts, sc in next 6 sts, hdc in next 6 sts, 2 dc in each of the next 2 sts; 16 sts
Row 26: ch 2 and turn, dc in next 4 sts, hdc in next 6 sts, sc in next 6 sts, sl st into back loop on next 2 sts from row 3; 18 sts
Row 27: ch 1 and turn, sk next 2 sl sts, sc in next 6 sts, hdc in next 6 sts, dc in next 2 sts, 2 dc in each of the next 2 sts; 18 sts
Row 28: ch 2 and turn, dc in next 6 sts, hdc in next 6 sts, sc in next 6 sts, sl st into back loop on next 2 sts from row 3; 20 sts
Fasten off and weave in ends.
- Right below the last rnd is where you want your lining to be sewn in. But it doesn’t have to follow the ripple. I kept mine a straight hem.
- Your purse should be slightly more narrow at the top than the bottom. Your fabric cut will be like a trapezoid.
- Get your fabric selection, cutting mat, straight edge, and rotary cutter, and cut your fabric with the bright sides facing each other, using the measurements of your crocheted purse.
- Cut fabric about an inch bigger than your purse to allow for seam.
- Cut and sew fabric with the right sides facing each other.
- I skipped a step of sewing down the tops. Just pin together with the right sides folded out, to create clean line for top of lining.
- Find a thread to closely match your yarn at the top of the purse, and it will make it easier to sew in the zipper.
- First, pin the zipper in place. It might look a little weird due to the ripples, but make sure it is centered.
- After pinning the zipper, insert your fabric into the bag. Remove the pins from the ziper and place them through the fabric AND zipper, so that both are pinned in place together.
- If your thread matches your yarn, you can just go back and forth, in and out through the lining, zipper, and yarn, and have a nice visible st on the inside of the lining.
- With your needle and thread, begin in the corner, under the zipper so that you can more easily hide the thread when you knot off.
Strap Option 1: For drawstring backpack – Do NOT line or zipper
Use F hook for the drawstring, I-cords!
Ashley of A Crafty Concept, used this fabulous drawstring technique for her dino backpack. Here, I have included a video tutorial, for how this works for the Mermaid Ripple Backpack!
You will want to make 2 cords, approximately 40 inches in length.
To make the i-cord:
To complete the cord, once at your desired length, simply pull yarn through all 3 loops and fasten off.
Once you have 2 cords at your desired length, you will begin assembling the bag. Begin on one side of your bag. Weave the first cord through, over and under about every 4 stitches, all the way around the bag, until your beginning tail, and your end tail are both coming out the same side of the bag.
With your second cord, begin weaving it from the opposite side of your first cord tails, and alternate weaving so that this cord is over, when the other one is under. Weave all the way around so that both the beginning and end tail of each cord are coming out the same side, opposite the other cord tails.
Then, knot your tails off inside the bag, turning it inside out to weave and hide your ends.
Straps Option 2: For purse
If you’d like, follow the above instructions for lining and a zipper for the purse option, before making the straps.
Ch 32
Row 1: turn and dc into 3rd ch from hook, dc in next 3 chs, hdc in next 4 chs, sc in next 14 chs, hdc in next 4 chs, dc in next 4 chs; 30 sts
Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing.
1st Strap Half, with F hook
Work in BLO for remaining rows.
Fasten off, leaving long tail for sewing.
Repeat rows 1-24.
Fasten off, and sew onto the first strap, just under the fin.
There are no rules for the strap! If you want it longer, go for it! A good length for crossbody straps for children are between 34-40 inches. If the child is available for measurement, measure diagonally across the body from one shoulder to opposite hip, and then double the measurement for the strap. Sew the fin down at the top of the strap, in either direction, or let it flop!
where can I get that cute crochet hook that is in the photos?
Hi Liz! Isn’t that hook amazing! It was made by HarperBabyHooks. She doesn’t currently have anything in her Etsy shop, but she can be found on both Facebook and Instagram. Here’s her FB link: https://www.facebook.com/HarperBabyHooks/
I am proud to say that I’ve learned the art of crochet when I was a 6th grader. At first, I was too lazy to leaner it and I let my classmate do it for me and I’ll just have to pay her after. But upon realizing that crochet is a wonderful craft that I need to learn, I started doing it by myself! Patience is indeed a must. You need to extend as much as possible and be considerate with your hands all the time. It’s truly tiring, but rewarding at the end. By the way, I have to say that your mermaid ripple purse is indeed beautiful!
I love this cute Mermaid Tail purse, I’m making it for my 8 year old granddaughter. But I’m having trouble figuring out the instructions for the straps. !st Strap half Row 31: ” Working perpendicular to row 24 ch 11″ What does that mean? Do I ch 11 to row 24? What do you mean? Please help